African trend is rising quickly, with demand for high-end African couture anticipated to surge by 42% over the subsequent decade, in response to UNESCO. Nigeria, one of many distinguished powerhouses within the international trend business and in Africa, is main this shift, even whereas spending over ₦1 trillion on imported materials every year.
In this interview with ThisDay, Mary Nwamu Obi-Rapu, the founder and inventive director of ASAABA, a up to date luxurious trend home, shared how she makes use of native, handwoven materials to honour Nigerian historical past, the each day challenges of rising manufacturing prices and energy cuts, and why native manufacturers should earn buyer belief via nice high quality as a substitute of patriotism alone. Excerpts:
Nigeria imported over ₦1 trillion value of textiles in 2025. With our wealthy textile heritage, why do you assume we nonetheless rely a lot on international materials?
Nigeria has a wealthy textile heritage, however rebuilding a contemporary textile business takes greater than that. We face critical manufacturing challenges, together with unreliable electrical energy, inconsistent provides of cotton and different supplies, ageing equipment and excessive working prices. Many giant textile corporations have closed or decreased their operations. That has weakened the hyperlinks between farmers, mills and trend companies, and native producers typically wrestle to satisfy the market’s wants for quantity, selection, high quality and worth.
Government help must be constant and sensible. We want funding throughout the worth chain, from farming and processing to energy, tools and finance. We additionally want to deal with smuggling. Import restrictions alone won’t rebuild the business; native producers want the situations to make materials that companies can rely upon and prospects wish to purchase.
Nigeria’s textile story shouldn’t be solely about giant factories. Our conventional textiles carry information, identification and talent. At ASAABA, we deliver heritage materials into up to date designs, and we imagine supporting weavers and different makers is a part of strengthening the broader business.
The international luxurious market has confronted slower gross sales in recent times. How do you persuade prospects that Nigerian luxurious is value paying a premium for?
I don’t imagine prospects ought to pay a premium just because a product is Nigerian. The product has to earn that worth via its design, supplies, high quality, ending and the talent behind it.
At ASAABA, we deliver heritage materials into up to date designs that girls can put on with confidence at this time. Each piece connects the wearer to Nigerian craft and identification whereas nonetheless feeling trendy and private. We produce in small batches and pay shut consideration to the small print.
I would like prospects to grasp the arms and information behind what they’re carrying. When somebody chooses ASAABA, they’re selecting a particular piece and supporting the artisans and traditions linked to it. Nigerian luxurious can stand by itself via its craftsmanship, creativity and high quality. We have to verify the product lives as much as that promise.
Many Nigerians nonetheless favor international designer labels. Do you assume that mindset is altering, and what is going to it take for native manufacturers to earn the identical status?
I do assume the mindset is altering, though there may be nonetheless work to do. Nigerian designers are creating lovely, distinctive trend, and native manufacturers have gotten extra seen. For that curiosity to develop, prospects have to belief the standard, match, ending and repair they are going to obtain.
A model earns belief via its work. That means considerate design, constant high quality, good ending and reliable service. We additionally want to inform our tales with confidence. At ASAABA, we draw on heritage textiles and produce them into up to date designs that really feel related to a lady’s life at this time.
Visibility issues too. When folks can uncover native manufacturers, see the work introduced effectively and listen to from prospects who’ve worn it, that helps construct confidence. I imagine the mindset is transferring. Lasting status will come from persevering with to ship work that’s authentic, effectively made and pleased with the place it comes from.
African designs typically encourage worldwide trend manufacturers. Do you assume Nigerian designers are getting sufficient recognition and monetary rewards for his or her creativity?
African trend is receiving extra worldwide consideration, and Nigerian designers are a part of that. But visibility doesn’t at all times imply honest recognition or reward. When our designs and cultural heritage encourage industrial work, the supply ought to be acknowledged, and the folks behind it ought to have a possibility to profit via collaboration, licensing or cost.
We additionally want stronger help to assist Nigerian designers shield their work and construct companies that may attain wider markets. At ASAABA, we work with heritage textiles as a result of they carry historical past, talent and identification. I hope folks worth not solely their magnificence, but additionally the makers and communities behind them.
You work carefully with conventional weavers. Are younger folks curious about studying these abilities, or are we prone to dropping an necessary a part of our heritage?
I’d say it’s each sure and no. Many younger persons are on the lookout for alternatives past their villages, and it may be troublesome to encourage them to study weaving if they don’t see a dependable strategy to earn a residing from it. We should make the work sustainable in addition to protect the custom.
At the identical time, some younger persons are studying. Some of the weavers I work with are educating their little kids the talents and methods so the information can proceed within the household. That provides me hope. We have to cross these abilities on and create stronger alternatives for younger folks to construct a livelihood from them.
What has shocked you most concerning the spending habits and trend preferences of Nigerian girls?
What I’ve seen is how thoughtfully girls steadiness private model, high quality and worth. Nigerian girls know what they like. They need clothes that feels lovely, matches effectively and works for the event. I additionally see curiosity in native designers who deliver a contemporary perspective to acquainted materials and traditions. Heritage can really feel fully up to date when it’s designed with care. At ASAABA, I hearken to our prospects and study from the methods they make every bit their very own.
With rising manufacturing prices in Nigeria, how do you retain your designs inexpensive to your goal prospects with out compromising high quality?
This is a troublesome query as a result of I would like ASAABA to be accessible, however the price of producing our work has risen significantly. The supplies used for weaving value extra, and energy is unreliable. Even after investing in photo voltaic, I typically have to purchase gasoline to run a generator when there has not been sufficient solar to cost the panels. Labour prices have additionally gone up with the price of residing.
These pressures have an effect on our margins. I’m nonetheless understanding tips on how to make our items extra inexpensive with out compromising high quality or undervaluing the folks behind the work. I’m decided to maintain constructing ASAABA and to be considerate about how we produce and worth every bit.
Your first assortment tells the story of girls who survived the aftermath of the Asaba bloodbath. How do you guarantee such a painful historical past is handled respectfully when translated into trend?
With The Women Who Raised Us, my intention was to pay homage to the ladies who lived via the aftermath of the Asaba bloodbath. We keep in mind the lads who have been killed, however the girls left to grieve, increase kids and rebuild their households are sometimes lacking from the dialog. I needed them to be remembered and honoured as heroes in their very own proper.
The assortment shouldn’t be about making gentle of their struggling. It is about recognising their resilience and making certain their half within the historical past of the Asaba bloodbath shouldn’t be forgotten. I hope every bit carries that sense of remembrance and respect.
Social media has helped many Nigerian trend manufacturers acquire worldwide consideration. How necessary has it been to ASAABA, and might one in style submit translate into lasting enterprise success?
Social media is necessary for a brand new model as a result of it helps folks uncover you. I’ve seen manufacturers get large consideration from a submit that goes viral, and that visibility can create alternatives. But I’m not positive one in style submit by itself can create lasting enterprise success. Customers additionally have to belief the model, perceive what makes it totally different and have expertise with its merchandise.
African trend is receiving extra consideration, however the area is crowded and competitors is robust. At ASAABA, we have now to maintain displaying up, telling our story and constructing belief over time. We have to remain the course and maintain pushing via.
Many girls wish to begin companies however wrestle with funding and help. From your expertise, what do you assume girls entrepreneurs want most to reach Nigeria?
Women entrepreneurs in every single place want honest entry to funding, mentorship and networks. Women typically should work more durable to show their skills and the worth of their concepts. In Nigeria, these challenges can really feel even larger as a result of entrepreneurs additionally face excessive working prices, unreliable infrastructure and restricted help for small companies.
The authorities, the personal sector and our communities all have a job to play by bettering entry to finance, mentorship and sensible enterprise sources. Women want encouragement, however additionally they want the situations and help to construct sustainable companies.
Is sustainability changing into a significant dialog in trend? Beyond utilizing conventional materials, what sensible steps is ASAABA taking to cut back waste and help accountable manufacturing?
Sustainability is on the forefront of what we do at ASAABA. We assist protect longstanding weaving methods and respect the time and talent that go into creating every textile. We are additionally intentional about utilizing our supplies thoughtfully. We use deadstock to make jackets, vests, scrunchies and pillows, giving these materials a brand new function as a substitute of letting them go to waste. For us, accountable manufacturing means valuing the supplies and the folks whose work brings them to life.
If you possibly can change three issues about Nigeria’s trend business at this time, what would they be and why?
If I might change three issues, I’d strengthen native sourcing, enhance the situations for producing in Nigeria and spend money on technical abilities.
First, we have to rely much less on imported inputs by constructing native capability to supply textiles and materials, in addition to equipment and {hardware} equivalent to buttons, zips and fastenings. That can create jobs and maintain extra worth within the Nigerian economic system. Second, we’d like dependable energy and higher infrastructure so designers and producers can produce persistently and compete.
Third, I’d spend money on technical trades, from weaving and textile manufacturing to tailoring, ending and making trend equipment, so companies can discover the expert artisans they want. These modifications are linked. Stronger native provide chains, infrastructure and abilities will help Nigeria develop its trend business and cut back dependence on imported clothes and materials.
Quote:
● “I don’t believe customers should pay a premium simply because a product is Nigerian. The product has to earn that value through its design, materials, and the skill behind it.”
● “We remember the men who were killed, but the women left to grieve, raise children, and rebuild are often missing from the conversation. I wanted them to be remembered as heroes in their own right.”
